The complex origins of Zendaya’s 3,000-year-old earrings which sparked backlash online

The issue for most archeologists isn’t the earrings themselves – it’s where they came from

Zendaya has found herself at the centre of an unexpected backlash after wearing a pair of earrings featuring ancient Iranian gold artefacts to the London premiere of The Odyssey.

The actress wore the redesigned earrings, which incorporate gold discs believed to date back to around 700 BC, while promoting Christopher Nolan’s latest film.

While fans praised the striking look, archaeologists are questioning whether objects of such historical significance should ever become red carpet accessories.

‘The earrings themselves are made out of looted antiquities’

via David Fisher/Shutterstock

The issue for most archeologists isn’t the earrings themselves – it’s where they came from.

Dr Annelise Baer, an archaeologist and producer, said the main ethical issue was “that the earrings themselves are made out of looted antiquities”. Dr Baer, whose video about Zendaya’s earrings drew criticism from some who felt it condoned the use of the artefacts, said the debate had overshadowed the wider issue.

An Instagram creator known as Dr Z called Zendaya’s choice to wear the earrings “gross.” On top of that, an Iranian-born art historian, Professor Sussan Babaie, said she believes objects like these likely carried important spiritual meaning and therefore, should not be reduced to fashion accessories.

She described them as “human heritage” and said using them on a Hollywood press tour strips them of much of their original significance. She added, “[it is] shocking to see that no one thought maybe this is not a good idea”.

Other archaeologists are questioning why replicas weren’t created instead. Rather than preserving the artefacts in their original form, critics claimed they have been transformed into luxury fashion pieces and removing them from their archaeological context. Others argued that using ancient relics as jewellery risks encouraging demand for artefacts whose origins cannot always be verified.

Some archaeologists have also claimed jewellery from this period was never simply decorative. Gold ornaments often marked social status, were buried alongside elites and could even carry religious symbolism. Genuine pieces surviving for three millennia are exceptionally rare

Are they ‘responsibly stewarded’?

One of the biggest criticisms isn’t simply that Zendaya wore ancient artefacts. Instead, critics argue that the original gold plaques were transformed into modern luxury jewellery.

The discs were turned into earrings by London jeweller Glenn Spiro using 18-carat yellow gold and diamonds as part of his Materials of the Old World collection. According to Spiro, many of the artefacts in the collection were acquired over decades by his father.

However, the exact history, or provenance, of the individual pieces has never been publicly documented. The earrings were later acquired by Barron London.

Some people argue that remounting the artefacts allows modern audiences to appreciate ancient craftsmanship.

Others say altering archaeological objects removes them from their original historical context and risks turning cultural heritage into a luxury fashion statement.

According to Barron’s statement, the earrings “are responsibly stewarded in accordance with their documented provenance and all applicable legal requirements”. The company added that loaning them to Zendaya was intended to celebrate the artistry of ancient Persian goldsmiths and was not meant for commercial purposes. In a statement, Barron London said: “The intention behind the loan was never commercial. It was to celebrate the remarkable artistry of ancient Persian goldsmiths and to encourage wider appreciation of one of the world’s great artistic traditions.

“At a time when Iran is so often represented through the lens of contemporary politics, we hope these earrings can also remind audiences of the country’s profound cultural, artistic and historical legacy.”

‘There is not enough cultural knowledge’

The backlash goes far beyond one pair of earrings. Zendaya isn’t the first celebrity to face questions over historically significant items.

Questions over who owns ancient artefacts have become increasingly prominent in recent years, with museums and collectors facing calls to return culturally significant objects to their countries of origin.

For archaeologists, the debate isn’t really about a Hollywood red carpet at all. It’s about whether priceless historical artefacts should ever leave museums and private collections to become wearable fashion

Featured image via David Fisher/Shutterstock

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