Why a visit to Ely should be in your calendar this autumn.

The Black Fens, though they may seem distant from the Cambridge bubble, offer a remarkable and unique landscape right on Cambridge’s doorstep. With its dark peat, bog oaks and vast skylines, there is nowhere quite like it in the country. It has captured the imagination of many who have decided to explore its depths.

Ely, the second smallest city in England, offers the perfect introduction to this landscape, for this was once an island that stood tall against the surrounding waterlogged conditions. Extensive drainage has created the Black Fen landscape we know today, featuring various relief channels and pumping stations that prevent flooding of the rich agricultural land.

Ely Cathedral (Photo credit: Thomas Pinchin)

Visiting Ely is straightforward, as it’s only a 10-minute journey by Anglia Rail. The highlight is the approach to Ely, where the so-called ‘ship of the fens’; Ely Cathedral towers over the surrounding landscape on its island perch. The railway captures a similar view to what would have been seen when the island was only accessible by water. For those still doubtful, the route has been approved by Michael Portillo (while donning a lime blazer).

Once you arrive, before heading straight to the cathedral—unmissable as it is— students at Sidney Sussex may want to hold back and pay a visit to Oliver Cromwell’s house – although please don’t rush all at once! This hidden gem is a fantastic museum with period-accurate rooms, an English Civil War exhibition, an audio tour, and a gift shop—the perfect way to start the trip for all of the Cromwell fanatics.

Oliver Cromwell’s house (Photo Credit: Thomas Pinchin)

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Ely Cathedral is a must-visit

The cathedral is well worth visiting, especially since it is free for Cambridge students. The highlights are the tower tours, which offer sweeping views of the fenland landscape. It is here that you can really appreciate the characteristic flatness and immense skylines in this part of the world. The most famous architectural addition is the Ely Octagon. Located inside the 14th-century tower, it is a timber lantern with an internal height of 43m. Painted in rich colours, it depicts a celestial scene, surrounded by some beautiful examples of stained glass. The cathedral also boasts a brilliant stained-glass museum, with a collection spanning over 800 years and loans from across the country. One particularly interesting exhibit showcases the intricacy, skill, and tools required to craft such beautiful glass during the medieval period. Many of the techniques from this period are still in use today.

The Octagon (Photo Credit: Thomas Pinchin)

Ely’s traditional high street

Moving on from the splendour of the cathedral, Ely’s high street has a great feel. It has a mix of characterful bookshops, restaurants, cafes, and charity shops. Regular markets are also held in the square and around the cathedral precinct.

I highly recommend Topping & Company Booksellers. It spans three floors and gives any Cambridge bookshop a run for its money, with a wonderful ambience and setting. However, my favourite shop to visit is by the riverside, a place aptly named Waterside Antiques. Here, you can find everything going. Layers and layers of old tools await those with a practical inclination; the space also features framed prints, toy cars, and a good selection of vinyl. Those who find the modern, sterilised shopping experience a bore will feel right at home!

Be warned, just next door lies a dangerous temptation for the health-conscious Cambridge student: Peacocks Tearoom. Serving cream teas, cakes, and also more savoury options, there really isn’t a better place to cap off the day.

End your visit with a stroll along The Great Ouse, a quieter alternative to the Cam, where weeping willows line the riverbank and colourful barges drift by. Follow the path west to the bridge on Station Road and watch the river stretch into the distance, eventually winding back to Cambridge. Visit Ely, what’s not to love?

The Great Ouse (Image Credit: Thomas Pinchin)

Featured Image Credit: Thomas Pinchin