The Philosophy of style part 2: shape and proportion

An in-depth fashionista’s analysis…


So this week I’m going to chat about shape and proportion. Before you ask, No, I’m not advocating a futuristic fashion revolution that includes clothing of more triangular or spherical dimensions (although I do keep an open mind!). As it turns out, when you strip good style down to its bare bones, shape and proportion is largely what it comes down to. When I say shapes, I’m referring to the fact that everything you wear is just that, a shape. When I say proportion, I’m referring to how the different shapes that you’ve put on look when viewed in conjunction (it’s as simple as square circle triangle).

Now, I’m not a bitchy man, and have concealed this individual’s identity out of respect (I don’t know what sort of direction you thought I was taking this article in but obviously only one is acceptable!) Here, however, the bagginess of this individual’s chinos jar with the extreme tightness of his polo shirt. The polo shirt is so tight (particularly around the stomach area) it rises, and therefore looks too short in relation to his trousers, which creates a disproportionate feel.  A solution to the issue would be perhaps to have a polo that is equally as fitted around the chest area, but is looser in the stomach and extends down lower, or perhaps to have more fitted trousers. Either way, this is merely an example of how strong an effect that proportion has on the aesthetic feel of any given outfit.

However, this is where style gets confusing, as some of the best outfits make use of a contrast between baggy and fitted. A very popular look this summer was the baggy, vintage T-shirt/vest that extends lower than normal below the waist, accompanied with slim fitting shorts that rise above the knee. Here, in complete contrast to the outfit of our friend above, the use of contrast is what gives this outfit its aesthetic zeal. See further examples of intelligent uses of contrast below.

image courtesy of cookbook.com

image courtesy of becausei’maddicted.com

images courtesy of necolebitchie.com, goneretro.co.uk and mtvartists.com

How can we put method to this madness? How can it be that a contrast between baggy and fitted is catastrophic in one instance but Genius in another? Well, one thing we can observe from the selected photographs is that whilst wearing something baggier on your top half often works well with something more fitted on your bottom half, the converse rarely has positive results. However, the main observable distinction is whether the use of contrast is purposely deployed by the outfit wearer or not. With the flattering image of Kanye West above it seems as though has consciously experimented with a contrast of shapes in his outfits to create a particular look. However, our anonymous friend in the tight red polo seems entirely unaware of the fact that there is disproportion in his outfit (If only he saw what we could see, eh? Then he’d understand…) All in all, the best advice is to be observant. Is there a contrast between baggy and fitted going on in your outfit? If so does it have a positive effect? Or does it detract from its aesthetic feel? See below for my St Andrean who smashed it this week. Next week I’ll be talking about colour and individuality.

images courtesy of Ebe Bamgboye

What I love about Ludo’s outfit is its simplicity. The mellow grey of his sweater goes perfectly with the maroon colour of his chinos, which gives him a very distinguished air. Furthermore, everything is sharply in proportion, he has ensured that his trousers are sufficiently slim fitting, so that they don’t jar with his slim fitting top, which makes him look smart. All in all, Ludo is most assuredly a St Andrean with style.