Lederhosen, Angels and brain-melting hangovers: Leeds does Oktoberfest

Phil Dodwell kicked off his year abroad by getting absolutely plastered at the world’s biggest booze-fest. Here’s what he remembers, vaguely.


Rio has Carnival. New Orleans has Mardi Gras. Hell, even Leeds has the Otley Run. But surely Munich’s Oktoberfest takes the title of booze Mecca… and what better way to kick off the year than with a weekend trip to the world’s largest piss-up?

Originally to celebrate a Royal Wedding, Oktoberfest has been an excuse for Bavarians and visitors alike to get royally hammered for the past two centuries. This year, it was time for our 15-strong team of Leeds year-abroaders to get in on the action.

Beer already affecting photographic ability.

Arriving the day before, we got up early on Friday to suit up in our Lederhosen and Dirndls before heading over to the Wies’n where the Fest takes place.

A massive square lay before us with each of the major Munich breweries having erected giant beer tents to house the hordes of revellers as they drink their way through 7 million litres of beer.

Former GermanSoc President loving all things beer tent.

Reasonable drinking hours are also thrown out of the window. If you want to stand a chance of getting a decent table, you have to be early. We made it for between 7 and 8am, ready for the 9am opening. The moment the doors do open, the queue (something that Germans fail to grasp anyway) descends into a mad dash so we had to be quick.

Having nabbed two tables, it was time to get in our first round of strong Bavarian Maß (litre beers, or approx. 2 pints). With the beer service underway and the band not due until midday, brave individuals started to stand up on their tables and salute the crowd before attempting to down their drink. A deafening roar crescendos until either the drink is finished or they are, the latter met with boos and an onslaught of thrown food.

A pretzel to the face was the only reward for the first challenger’s failure to chug down his entire litre. A little later in the day, and with a little more liquid courage, I did manage to complete the feat myself.

The band takes the stage.

The music, once it starts at 12pm sharp, livens up the atmosphere further but it only really ramps up a notch at 6pm, when chart hits replace the traditional tunes. The band threw in some Avicii as well as more than a fair share of Robbie Williams (Germans LOVE Robbie Williams) and I don’t think I will ever hear a larger, more passionate rendition of ‘Angels’ for as long as I live.

Germans LOVE Robbie Williams… and a good beard

Finally, after 14 hours of drinking, the beer tents closed up shop at 11pm, everyone then heading off out or going home depending on what state they’d left themselves in. No trouble though as, on the next morning, it all begins again.

For some, morning consequences were dire.

Of all the beer tents we went to that weekend, the undoubted king has to be the Hacker-Festzelt or so-called Himmel der Bayern (“Heaven of Bavaria”). This is deservedly the most famous tent and it was here that we chose to see out the final Sunday. The incredible atmosphere inside brought an unbelievable three days to a close, with a thousand sparklers lighting up the drunken masses for the final song.

Even the brain-melting hangover after a 22-litre-strong weekend wasn’t enough to put a dampener on the (admittedly patchy) memory of Oktoberfest.

For more German antics, head to Phil’s blog, abroadlyspeaking.wordpress.com