Lydia Cooper: inside the life of a student fashion designer

Last weekend Lydia Cooper opened Fuze for the second year running with her stunning  collection of dramatic evening-wear. Since most of us can barely manage to find the time to get dressed in the morning, Tab Fashion caught up with the second year History of Art student and designer to find out how she does it…

Your Facebook bio says you’re a self-taught dressmaker – that’s really impressive! How long have you been designing?

I’ve always been interested in making art for as long as I can remember, and then when I was probably about 13 I started making awful stuff for myself! When I was about 16 I made a collection for my school charity fashion show. I got my first two commissions for individually fitted evening dresses from that – that was what made me think ‘maybe I could do this’. I then did Fuze last year and again this year. No one really taught me how to sew and I don’t use patterns – I just sort of made it up and learnt from mistakes.

How do you have the time to to design and make an entire catwalk collection on top of uni?! 

I don’t know! It does help that I study history of art which doesn’t have many contact hours. I only actually started making the dresses in the Christmas holidays – trying to do that as well as revise for 3 exams was a bit of a nightmare!

One of Lydia’s designs on the Fuze 2014 catwalk. Photo: Ruby Walker

How long does it take to make each dress?

It just depends on the dress. It’s a long process from designing it before arriving at the finished product, but the actual making can be surprisingly quick. The last dress in the collection didn’t exist until the Thursday before the show! Time management has not always been a strong point of mine…

It must be difficult having a student house for a design studio…

My room is a complete state! It would probably be considered a health hazard as there are pins everywhere.

What inspired the Fuze 2014 collection?

For a long time I’ve wanted to do a collection themed around the four elements – earth, air, fire, and water – but thinking about it visually, my ideas for earth, with tribal inspired materials and textures stood out. I liked neutral, monochrome colours best and I loved the feathers I found so I just went with that and it grew from there. What fabric I can actually find is another crucial influence in developing my ideas.

Sheer fabrics in muted, earthy tones were toughened up with leather detailing and bronze-tipped feathers. Photo: Ruby Walker

How would you describe your work?

I’m still working it out to be honest! I want to create clothes that are striking and unusual, but also flattering. Alexander McQueen is a huge influence. I love the drama, the innovation and the way he balanced soft elegance with a structured edge. I don’t like stuff that’s ‘cute-sy’. I like there to be a theatrical element to clothes, as to me fashion is all about dressing up in costume after all.

How was working with the team at Fuze?

Brilliant. Everyone was friendly, helpful and amazingly organised! I only got to see the rest of the show on Saturday and its amazing how much talent there is in Bristol.

Lydia’s embellished collars were reminiscent of Alexander McQueen’s bold designs. Photo: Issy Croker

Did it all go smoothly on the night?

There were a few last-minute changes, adjustments and taking stuff up. I also managed to fall down the stairs after I’d walked offstage at the end of the show…. So smooth. I wasn’t even wearing heels.

Lydia gets a well-deserved round of applause after the show. Photo: Ruby Walker

What’s next for Lydia Cooper? 

I love doing the big, creative stuff, but I’d like to do a ready-to-wear collection next. I want to do stuff that’s a bit different, but not too expensive because I want it to be affordable for students. I’m thinking of continuing along the same theme to create stuff that’s fun for festivals and going out.

Lydia’s ready-to-wear collection will be hitting Bristol early next term, so check out her Facebook page to find out all about the launch party she’s planning – if Fuze is anything to go by, you definitely won’t want to miss it!